The friends we were meeting up for dinner were told from their friends that the 'best' meat restaurant was in the 14th arrondissement of Paris. So, we needed to try it out!
This place is a carnivore's delight -- in fact, its owner was a butcher from Nivernaises before turning restaurateur. The concept of the restaurant was that the butcher wanted people to experience the way Parisians used to eat back in the 1890s. For example; crunchy & crispy fried pigs' feet and served with hand cut and expertly fried frites.
The charming bistro was very small, only eight tables. As usual like most restaurants in Paris, all the tables were tightly situated next to one another. The decor is highlighted with old & dark woods, brown & burgundy were the main colour, and a huge chalk board wall with all the wines listed on it. There was an open kitchen where the chef was alone yet was able to handle all the orders in a maddening speed & order.
Le Severo had some interesting 'natural' wines. Natural wines have no sulfer & no additives at all, making them a bit bubbly when you drink them. Since the majority of the people at our table were not familiar with 'natural' wines. We ordered the 2007 Saint-Joseph. They craft subtle, unextracted Syrah for immediate enjoyment. “What we like is natural wine because it’s alive, wine that does not necessarily have to be kept – just drunk and drunk again.” (François Ribo, quoted in John Livingstone-Learmonth’s The Wines of the Northern Rhône). Natural wines are not to everyone's tastes since they are crafted differently. The majority of the people at our table did not appreciate this wine as much as we did.
Several of us ordered the in season Cèpes for our starter. We all received a plate with a generous portions of these amazing mushrooms.
The Tartare de beouf. The tartare was made of good quality beef, it was nicely spiced and had a good texture. A tartare can be awful if it is not well balanced with the proper ingredients. This was one was very good.
The Filet de boeuf. The best cut on the menu...the filet de boeuf was cooked perfectly, the meat was tender & juicy.
The Onglet avec shallots. This cut of meat topped with fried shallots is one of the most typical dishes you can get in Parisian bistros. The meat was tender, juicy and cooked perfectly as ordered.
The next wine was the 2007 Sauvigny-les-Beaune. The wine was full of bright, ripe red fruits that was balanced by a fresh acidity and delicate grainy tannins. The wine went very well with the meats.
The Crème caramel. The crème caramel was soft, velvety and yet firm. The texture and taste of this dessert was just lovely. A light and tasty way to end my meal.
Overall; if you google Restaurant Le Severo, you will find many people as well as food critiques who have praised this restaurant for it's atmosphere as well as one of the finest 'meat' places in Paris for the quality of the ingredients, it's cooking and its food. On top of that, some even say that the french fries are the best in Paris.
I was especially amazed at the chef in the kitchen; he was alone, yet he was able to handle all the orders in a timely manner & fashion and on top of that he got all the cooking of the meats perfectly right. It was tiring watching the guy. The butcher himself was the only person taking orders & serving the wines & food. They truly made the perfect team.
In the end my friends and I unanimously agree that the meal we had was not bad at all...but (there is always a but), it was not the best we have had in Paris. We thought it was a great neighborhood restaurant but we would not drive all the way from the 6th to the 14th again just for meats.
8, Rue des Plantes
Tel. : 08 99 78 72 43
Lundi - Vendredi : de 12:00 à 14:00 de 19:30 à 22:00
A la carte (entrée + plat + dessert) 40 €